The pleasure of an ice cream admired at the Bắc Hà market in northern Vietnam
The last page introduced the market at Bắc Hà in Lào Cai Province, concentrating on those selling their wares. This page continues with the market, but showing something of the buyers. While nearly all the vendors come from within walking distance of the market, the customers come from around the world; these photographs seek to avoid dispelling the illusion of a local market, and so minimise foreign appearances.
Choosing courgettes
Woman with earring
Gossip amongst shoppers - balloons welcomed
Hallmarks of the Flower H'Mông women:
gold teeth, bright clothes and earrings
As noticed on
the last page
the people at the market, who attract photographers like magnets, are the women of the Flower H'Mông ethnic group. The women's clothes are wonderful works of art which take the makers many months to weave and then embroider. The men, as with other ethnic groups in the north, wear plain dark jackets with low collars and woven toggles for fastenings.
Hardly visible on a small screen are the toothpicks both the Viet woman and man are chewing - a ubiquitous practice in Vietnam. The dog sadly, by its breed, is also for chewing
In contrast to those western clad Viet, a H'Mông woman pays for her vegetables
The local H'Mông people act as a magnet for tourists, but in all parts of Vietnam the majority group, the Viet (known in Vietnam as Kinh), are present, dressed as westerners dress.
These girls are managing the sticky feat of eating chunks of pineapple while perambulating
Viet man and local woman
A man is taking home his uncut sugar cane
Here the cane is being cut into short lengths to form
individual portions;
eaten as we eat sweets
Here a photographer is allowed to intrude onto this page.
For a shot he missed see the
page on 'Mat Meals'
Social gatherings are at the heart of markets (and all else) in Vietnam, and food is at the heart of social gatherings. All markets have a range of eating and drinking options.
In the buildings around all markets cafés abound, allowing customers to contemplate the commotion in peace
Some cafés operate in permanent halls
like the one in the picture higher up,
others, like the one above, appear
under shelters erected on the day
This is the less common male equivalent of the conical hats worn by women; here he has it over his cap
A group of men looking a little slowed down after eating and no doubt some drinking
Women are the entrepreneurs of Vietnam, money is rarely too far from even the most convivial of occasions
The next page
goes back to Đồng Văn and takes a look inside the palace on which the
café, of a previous page,
was modelled.